Showing posts with label blanchjisu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label blanchjisu. Show all posts

Monday, February 25, 2019

Touching cloth: sculpting folds of fabric in greenstuff 

Hello there! I’ve been sculpting a hell of a lot of cloth for my necromunda gangs lately and received quite a few messages asking how I go about ... touching cloth.


So here we go!
Tool list:
•Two bits of clear plastic (the plastic from the clam shell packages are ideal.)
•Petrolium jelly. Any Vaseline will do. I’m using sculpting Vaseline.
•Greenstuff. You can give it a go with miliput but I’ve not tried it. And greenstuff is pliable.
•Sculpting tools.
•Razor blades.


Right let’s do this.
First you want to cut your plastic into two sheets

Rub a little Vaseline onto each to stop the greenstuff sticking
Place your green stuff between and squish and move the plastic until you have the right thickness for what your wanting. A firm even pressure for best results. It’s really easy to stick the greenstuff to the plastic. But this system is so quick if you mess up it’s easy to try again.


Now cut away the excess until you have your base cloth. Using your sculpting tools pick it up to avoid fingerprints and push it into place. Don’t rush this step. Greenstuff has a long drying time so you have lots of time to work it into the right shape.


I use a rubber sculpting tool to push it into position, I start by getting the corners and pushing them into voids in the model with a cocktail stick, under shoulder pads or hip pads are best. Then using a small rubber sculpting tool manipulate it into shape, if you don't have one of these get a cheap pencil with a rubber on the end and shave it into a chisel shape. boom cut price sculpting tool. Don't use dental tools for this step. although you may feel you have more control with them you will end up squashing it into shapes with hard edges. The rubber tools are the way to go. Now leave to dry and presto, loin cloths, cloaks, and drying human skins for days!

Image result for rubber sculpting tools



Greenstuff sculpting is still quite a new area for me too so this is very much my own uninformed opinion. Good luck. And happy painting.
Henry






Wednesday, December 5, 2018

Van Saar: The dust gate orb weavers Finished!

After a bloody age of these guys sitting on my desk I've only gone and finished them! And I'm really happy with how they came out.



As it's been 7 months since I did the concept for them I'll recap whats been done.

Each one has padding sculpted between the hips, neck, ankles and shoulders to make them stand a couple of mm taller and adjust the poses significantly. Cloaks were greenstuff rolled out between two pieces of plastic coated with a little olive oil then sculpted into position.

I've kept the metals NMM so as to get the contrast I wanted and keep the colour pallete manageable.
The colours I settled on are a bit of a classic as the models were quite busy I didn't want to make it jarring. So turquoise and orange over muted bases are always a good bet.

Enjoy the photodump!

and happy painting! See you next week for my Delaque plans!





















Tuesday, July 14, 2015

How to be a better painter.

I'm not a fantastic miniature painter. But I have gone from amateur/mediocre to good in the couple of years I've been back in the hobby. Which is a pretty steep learning curve. So heres some musings on how I reckon that s happened.

Before

After

I've painted, drawn, and sculpted my entire life, you might think this would give me a massive head start, and in some ways it has. But miniature painting it's a different ball game.. its juggling to zorbing.

As a visual effects artist my job is to observe and recreate. This is the place I feel I may have an edge. Observing and relying on reference. If I want to paint marble my first stop is www.cgtextures.com (free membership), then going out and seeing some marble. It might seem like a simple step but it's one that's forgotten more often than not.





But this is only half the battle. Knowing what your painting is fine if you can transfer that image directly to the model but having the skills behind it to translate the real world to 28mm scale is something that doesn't come easy.

I've spent a lot of money on gimmicky stuff. Fake gold leaf, brushes of every sort, stencils of every shape, convinced that this is what I need to improve. And now three years later I'm sat here with a size 1 brush and my airbrush and maybe a couple of tricks.

So my second bit of advice. Give up the size 0000000 brush. Learn to love a brush you can actually paint with. While the supermini brushes might seem like a good idea you cant "load" a brush that only has 4 bristles. Have you noticed your paint drying between the pot and the target? Want to keep painting but find you've run out of paint before the stroke has finished?

A size 1 Windsor and Newton brush has been my go to brush for the last year and I cant see that changing. From pupils in eyeballs to wet blending It will keep a sharper tip than any small brush as the bristles are angled inwards, and keep enough water and pigment held in its Well that you can complete a few strokes with it before it runs out.

It's dangerous to go alone. 
 Take these!


Thirdly, a community to turn to. Painting isn't a team event. But your not a lone wolf. Having the support of a good painting community is invaluable. My group of choice is John Ashton (from www.heresyandheroes.wordpress.com), my dog Alfie (He doesn't have a website), the G+ Warhammer 40k board and the 'eavy metal group on Facebook.
You are never too bad to post. You see so many pictures on groups saying the same thing "I know this doesn't deserve to be beside these beautifully painted figures but..." If your part of the group and are trying to improve your painting, you wont be mocked for it. There's nothing your fellow artists like more than to see people improve based off their advice...


Which brings me to my final point. Tuition. You'll probably notice that my work took quite a jump a couple of years ago, after stumbling onto www.massivevoodoo.blogspot.com
This font of knowledge is incredible. Loads of tutorials and quick and dirty tips and tricks.

But for a master-class, except no substitute, I've learned and re-learned how to paint from Painting Buddha. Ben Komets, Mati Zander, and Micheal Bartels. They are clear and concise, with explanations in a rainbow of languages. The split screen video tutorials are second to none and to get to their videos is incredibly cheap. Too cheap. Sign up immediately. If you want to be better go here.

http://www.paintingbuddha.com


I hope this little wordy geekout has helped some people out!
Happy painting!
Henry

Tuesday, March 24, 2015

40k Assassin kill team conversions



Took some pretty pictures of my kill team so far. I guess it will turn into more of a squadron once I'm all done. I have such plans.

I'll give you the list but I want to save the details as a surprise:
Callidus
Culexus
Eversor
Vindicare
Venenum
Vanus
Maerorus
Ordo Scriptorum deletion squad
Omnissiahs blade
** RECORDS EXPUNGED **
Transport
Cryotube containment ram


Please find parts list at the end of each character shoot.

CALLIDUS ASSASSIN

Without further ado here is my latest finished model, the Callidus Assassin. Had a few fancy ideas about her morphing into or from another character, but whos to say I cant do two!








The conversion list is quite simple, but the modifications were extensive:
Head: Demonette
Hair: Wood elf witches on horseback
Body arms and legs: Harliquins kit
Pistol: Necron weapon, bolt pistol, Scions gubbins
Blades: Scions.



CULEXUS ASSASSIN

Amazing fun to do, and with a real sense of story in this one. The conversion/greenstuff didn't come out exactly how I wanted, but he does the job. I think I was too excited about starting the Callidus to give it the full attention it deserved.







The parts I used are as follows.
Head: Greenstuff pipes and big head, servo skull, gravaton gun, FW mechanicum pipe end.
Body: FW rogue psyker, heavily scraped and sanded.
Legs: Scions cut and greenstuffed to give it a little more height and pose.
Weapons: Catachan Jungle fighters.

EVESOR ASSASSIN


This model came out pretty much fully formed. As if it was just waiting to be made. I've loved the character for years but found the original model didn't have the dynamism or terrifying aspect the fluff describes.









The BITZ:
Head: Skull cut from scenery, back of head from Scions.
Body: Imperial Guard Command Squad
Left arm: greenstuff and Catachan Jungle fighters arm, vials from Dark Eldar... something, pipes made from metal guitar strings. Sholder pad from Ork kit.
Right arm: Scions, needle gun from Dark Eldar, green stuff pipes.
Legs: Dark Elf assassin, greenstuff, scions loincloth. 
Misc: Scions, IG Ogryns.